More than 500 sewing machines at Purecotz are in full swing every day and transforming the fabric railway around fabric web into clothing. Only fair trade and organically grown cotton is processed here. The customers of the textile factory include the Kassel Fair Fashion company and Fairtrade partner Melawear. Nilesh Kamli is one of around 1000 employees. The 40-year-old takes care of the production of prototypes, so-called sampling.

Since 17 years old, Nilesh has been working in the textile industry. In order to support his family financially, he took responsibility at an early age: "My mother was sole breadwinner and my older brother has a disability. So I left school and accepted a job in the sewing area.”

Since then, the situation of the family has improved considerably. Today the Kamlis live in an orange stone house with a small covered porch. Even flowing water exists – no matter of course in India. On the paved atrium hangs laundry and dries in the sun. 

Life at the factory

From the residential building it is about twenty minutes by car to the factory. Ride on a motorcycle to work every morning at Nilesh and his wife Chetna. The factory owner and CEO of Purecotz is Amit Narke, an entrepreneur from Mumbai. “My boss is a good person,” explains Nilesh. “Although I have no comprehensive training, he has given me responsibility for the entire department.” Otherwise, the factory also differs from others: “Everyone is very disciplined and the salaries are paid on time. That was different with my previous employer,” he says. Workers were also supported during the pandemic. When the entire factory had to close for a few days, they continued to receive money.

In many parts of India, workers were on their own during the lockdown. Salaries in the textile industry are already low, so that savings for emergencies are usually not possible.

Next goal: Living wages

Although there are legally regulated minimum wages in India, many workers are dependent on overtime. To improve the salary structure, Purecotz works with partners such as Melawear and Fairtrade. Since 2020, the proximity has been certified according to the textile standard, with which Fairtrade wants to improve working conditions in the textile industry. This means that employees like Nilesh are more involved in decision-making processes and receive a better wage in the long term, a so-called “living scale”. This not only covers the cost of food and rent, but also allows investments in education or health as well as saving for emergencies.

A necessary step, Nilesh says: “I like my job very much, but in order to be able to put something aside, the salary would have to be higher,” he says. A wish that should be fulfiled by 2026 at the latest. According to the Fairtrade standard, all employees of the textile factory must receive such a salary within six years – regardless of their activities.